How to Build the Puck e-Cig Mod Part 1

The Puck e-cigarette battery mod replaces the normal e-cig battery you use on a normal e-cig.  You still use your existing atomizer and cartridge.  The Puck you are going to build houses the batteries, pushbutton switch, an on/off swtich and LED indicator.  You screw your existing atomier into it.

The Puck e-cig battery mod uses 4 AAA rechargable NiMH batteries you can buy anywhere.

The best thing about the Puck is, it uses 4 regular AAA NiMH rechargable batteries you can buy at just about any grocery or department store.  With a 901 atomizer, you will get over 24 hours of battery power before having to recharge the batteries.  No more ordering expensive batteries that only last a few hours per charge.  Since the Puck runs about 4.8 volts max with a 901 atomizer, you will get loads of vapor from your e-cig.  More than you had ever got out of your normal e-cig battery since the normal e-cig batteries run about 3.7 volts.  The extra voltage makes so much a difference, you will find it hard to use a regular e-cig battery again.

So here are the features of the Puck e-cig battery mod…

1. Based on a 901 atomizer (but you can use others with different connectors).
2. Go to any store, anytime to buy your batteries like walmart, Kmart, grocery store, hardware store and more. You can buy rechargeable NiMH batteries anywhere.
3. Very small and lightweight.
4. Batteries typically last over 24 hours with fairly constant vaping with a 901 (about 12 hours with a 510).
5. Batteries can be charged in 15 minutes with a 15 minute charger.
6. Batteries are very easy to change to put in a freshly charged group.
7. Large amount of vapor and flavor, a lot more than a regular e-cig.
8. If you break it, it is easily fixed.
9. Very cheap and easy to build.  Parts cost less than 10 bucks.

Ready to start?

First you want to order your 901 atomizers if you don’t have any already.  You will want those now so you can screw them in and use your new Puck as soon as you get it done.

Here are the parts you need to get from Radio Shack.

2  4AAA Battery Boxes – RS# 270-411
1  Push Button Momentary Contact Switch – RS# 275-644
1  “M” type Coaxial Jack – RS# 274-1582
1  LED holder (if you wish to use) – RS# 276-079
1  470 or 500 ohm resistor (for LED) – You can only get a 470 ohm from Radio shack.
1  LED of your choice.

*** NoteOne builder ask me to warn you that if you decide to use parts other than listed, be sure they will fit in the control box.  They ran into a problem where they didn’t plan for that and ran into some size issues.  Just make sure they will fit with the unit put together if you substitute parts, like a different switch or so.

Tools needed…

A soldering iron
Diagnal side cutters
Small phillips screw driver
Small flat blade screw driver
A drill with small drill bits
A t-handle reamer would be great if you have one or could get one.  This tool is invaluable for modding.

You will also need some epoxy.  I used to use JB Kwik or Loctite 5 minute epoxy that sets up in 5 minutes.  I have used both and they both work great.  I now use a product called QuikSteel which I found is the best epoxy for mods since it handles the high temperature that can result from atomizers, is easier to work with and sets up like a rock in 5 minutes. It’s like working with clay.

Once you have the parts, tools and epoxy gathered together, you can move on to “How to Build the Puck e-Cig Battery Mod – Part 2

55 thoughts on “How to Build the Puck e-Cig Mod Part 1

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    • For a 510 atomizer or tank, you would need to use a 510 to 901 adapter or… just use a regular 510 connector from an old 510 battery. You can also order a 510 connector online from places like or other supplier. With some 510 to 901 adapters, you may need to put a little bit of extra solder on the end of the center pin of the jack to make sure it gets good contact. A few people have had a couple issues like this but not many.

  2. I just built my 1st puck. It functions beautifully except that it’s running at 5.53V. The batts are standard Duracell NiMH (1000 mAh). I tested a batt & it’s putting out 1.39V. Is it common for them to exceed 1.2V? They are brand new.. IDK if that has anything to do with it. Any thoughts on regulating it? I’m generally a low voltage vaper.

    • NiMHs usually do run a little hotter than 1.2 volts on a new charge. They taper off a bit fairly quickly until they get to about 1.2 – 1.3. You really need to be using 3.0 ohm for the best results.

  3. I love your works. Do you have part numbers for all of the devices. That is pretty cool. I want to start creating devices and it would be a big help. I really want to make a device that is both auto and manual. I also want to create my own atomizers too. existing partnumbers would be a big help in designing safe units. Please contact me

  4. If I wanted this to run at 3.3 volts(like a standard ego) could I just throw a 3.3 volt regulator in the circuit just before the atty connector?

    • You could. A switching/pulse regulator would work the best. Others waste too much of your battery power through heat.

      Also, I thought egos were 3.6 volts but I may be wrong. If that is the case, you may be able to get away with just using 3 NiMH batteries (3.6 volts) and no regulator.

      • Freshly charged my ego reads 3.3 on the multimeter under load. When I saw that I figured that there must be a regulatorin line somewhere.

        Thanks for answering, though. I’ll most likely build it with 3 AAA batts. That should be fine with my 1.8 ohm clearos.

    • Since the Puck uses 4 Nimhs for a base voltage of 4.8 volts, you wouldn’t be happy with it since you can only go lower. The Puck works just fine with no voltage control at 4.8 volts. No need to lower it. Voltage control is kind of useless unless your voltage of your batteries is over 5 volts base voltage.

  5. I just got a battery holder that takes 4-18650 batteries and a couple voltage regulator boards. Do you know how to write this up. I thought it would be easier unless I’m making thing more difficult then it should be. I tend to do this quite often. Please http.

    • It depends on what you are trying to do. I’m not sure what box you are talking about so a link to it if it is on the internet may help me. Are you wanting to wire them all in parallel? With 4 18650s in parallel, you could vape a week without charging but it would be a pretty large mod.

      To have the batteries in parallel, all postives need to be tied together and all negatives need to be ties together. For other configurations, I’d have to see the battery box.

      Also, what kind of voltage regulator boards? It makes a difference.

  6. Hi! I wanted to try to build a puck from what i have around the house before i went out and bought everything needed. You know? Just to prove the concept works and that an atomizer can be powered by Ni-Mh batteries. But what i had around the house was only a 3 battery holder. So i tried it with that but it didn’t work. I’m using an Joyetech ego-c LR as an atomizer and it didn’t even make a noise… Any ideas? Is it the atomizer? Do i need a bigger resistance? Or is it the voltage? I thought that for an 1.7 ohm resistance, 3.6 V should suffice…

    • First off, the Puck is not a concept. It is a full blown working mod that thousands of people have built and are still using. I know, I get emails :).

      When coming up with the Puck mod, I tried all kinds of configurations of batteries, battery types, atomizers, etc. The very best combination that worked for over 24 hours on one charge, put out tons of vapor and kept me (and a ton of other people) satisfied for years is the combination in the tutorial. 4 AAA NiMH batteries and a 3 ohm atty. The magic combination. You could also use AA size but they are bigger but last even longer.

      Now for your situation, 3 batteries do not put out enough to power a 1.7 ohm resistance. To put in laymans terms. NiMHs cannot supply the requested power fast enough in this configuration. I’ve tried 3.0 ohms with 3 batteries and it worked but not as well as I liked. 2.4 ohms should work okay but to get the full blown power of the Puck :) , you need 4 AAA or AA batteries and a 2.5 to 3 ohm atty, clearomizer, carto or whatever you want to use.

      Once you go to 4 batteries and use a 2.4 to 3 ohm atty, you will see why the Puck mod became so popular. Also, one very important point to remember,… if you are trying to use NiMHs that have been laying around your house for a couple of years, you won’t get the performance you want. Old NiMHs get old and useless but so does lithium-ion).

  7. I just built your mod and it works great. Was curious as to where I can find a 901 to 510 adapter to be able to use my regular tanks and cartos on this box mod. Thanks for the guide and the great mod

  8. Hey Puck I wanted to make a few puck ecigs and was wondering if it was okay to sell them or if its a no-no i don`t plan on taking the idea as my own,i was just wondering if i can make it then i can sell it right?

    • you can sell them. You’re doing the work so you shuold get paid for it :) Sorry for the long time in responding. My site has been buried in spam and I’m just now getting to the top of the crop of legit comments.

  9. How would I do it if I wanted to use batteries like efest, LG 35 amp, or vtc5 30 amps? Would the process be the same? And this is unregulated, correct? I’m new to this whole DIY stuff.. Thanks in advance.

    • The process is still the same but only using 3.7 volts instead of the 4.8 my mods use. You are just using one battery instead of 4. And yes, this is unregulated.
      Most all regular ecigs use 3.7 volts.

  10. What if I wanted a dual parallel 18650s? Two VTC 5s. Would there be voltage drop? I’m a sub ohm builder, what could I do to run like a .07? I’ve seen it done on an regulated box mod before. Does that even make sense two VTC 5th running that low of ohms? Is it safely possible?

  11. You have been an inspiration to me to start creating ecig mods. My dad passed away from lung cancer when I was 15, I am 28 now, and I wish vapes would have been around years ago. They may have saved his life for all we know. My cause now is to build these mods and pass them on to friends and family who still smoke and pray they make the same switch. I haven’t yet built one but I am slowly but surely acquiring all of the necessary equipment to do so. I just got a dremel with many different heads), so I can build one out of practically anything, a soldering gun and stand with iron (will that work as well or just the same as the JB weld?), flux, wire strippers, screw drivers and an 18650 battery charger with batteries. (Is it possible to use these larger batteries in my mods? I still need to get a hold of some epoxy, unless a glue gun will work just the same? Plus I have a gentleman bringing me some LED lights of all different colors here in the next day or so. I hope you are able to answer these questions for me and again, thank you for all you do for us who have switched to vaping.

    • Sorry for the late replies. My house and property was hit by a tornado and I’ve been busy cleaning up and dealing with insurance company and contractors.

      JB weld is the epoxy for gluing things together. It has nothing to do with soldering. I use a basic soldering iron and stand with a fine tip. A glue gun doesn’t work as well as epoxy since sometimes the connectors get hot and the hot glue will remelt where epoxy doesn’t.

      Let me know if you have any more questions.

  12. I built mine with a 470ohm resistor and I think 1/2 watt. When I hit the botton without a atty it lights up. With atty no light and hardly any vape. What’s the best resistor? I would like the light though.

    Using a 901-510 converter with I think 1.5ohm bridge less dripping atty. it was small for stealthy.

    • The resistor you have should work fine. No problems there. It sounds like you don’t have your batteries wired correctly. You are not getting enough voltage to the atty so there has to be a problem with the way the batteries are connected. An atty takes a lot of power, that’s why the led goes out since it is not getting the power it needs. Leds don’t take hardly any power so that is why it lights when no atty is present. Check the wiring from your batteries.

  13. I just built the Puck mod yesterday with 2 4 AA boxes but used an ego connector from an old battery. When I put the batteries in and hit the button nothing happens. I triple checked that everything is soldered correctly. My biggest concern is the ego connector ground. I took some sand paper to the inside of the connector and just soldered the ground to that. What did I do wrong? I really want to get this thing working and then try to build it with just one 4 AA box and smaller components. Thanks!

    • Did you use an LED and if so, does it light? Do you have a voltmeter where you can check the voltage at the connector when you hit the vape button?

      Soldering to the ground on the ego connector should not be a problem in most cases. You might also make sure the center pin in the connector is making contact with your atty’s center pin. I have a few tanks that don’t always make contact. Also, make sure the power switch is switched on. A lot of folks forget there is a power switch on the Radio Shack 4AA boxes.

      Let me know if you still have any issues and we can dig a little deeper.

      • I do have an LED but it doesn’t light. Unfortunately I don’t have a volt meter… I’ve made sure the power switch is on. I’m at a loss and without a volt meter I’m not sure ill figure it out.

        • What resistance (ohms) are you running on your atty or tank?
          What is the age of your batteries?
          Are you using 4 batteries?
          Are they freshly charged?
          Did you double check where your wires are connected to the batteries to make sure there are 4 batteries wired in series?
          It should work even with the LED in there. An LED doesn’t pull hardly any current at all and is one indicator that power is getting to the atomizer if you wire the LED and resistor directly across the atty (observing correct polarity of the LED of course).

          Check the above and let me know what you find. I hope you can find the iisue. With 4 AA batteries, you should be producing all kinds of vapor. :)

          • My tank coil is 2.5 ohms. I just stopped at Family Dollar today and got the batteries pre-charged. I went down to 3 batteries but have seen several people do the same thing to avoid having to use 2 battery boxes and still produced a lot more vapor than I did. Only reason I took the LED out is because even looking at your pictures and description I feel like I couldn’t figure out if it was wired correctly. I looked and should have enough room to fit the 4th battery back in the box. I will try it tomorrow and let you know if that is the issue or not. Thanks so much for all the help so far!

          • Now we are getting somewhere. 3 batteries will not (or just barely) work. If your atty ohms was like 1 ohm or so it would work,.. but not long.

            For the Puck mod, you must use 4 Nimhs with an atty of 2.5 to 3 ohms. That’s the magic combination for NiMHs that makes them work well.

            I spent a ton of time experimenting when coming up with the Puck’s combination of batteries and atty resistance and 4 NiMHs with a 2.5 or 3 ohms coil will get you the most power/vapor and battery longevity.

            Once you use the 4 Batteries, you should get massive amounts of vapor from your tank. Good Luck :)

  14. you sir are a very paitent man answering everyone’s questions and troubleshooting their work for them. it was very generous of you to put your designe that you worked hard to come up with out there free of charge for anyone who wants to use it. thank you that was very nice of you.

  15. Hey Puck!

    I found you via ECF. I just wanted to say that your tut is amazingly well written. I have NO experience in anything electrical or technical, and I was able to build the original puck with ease. I’m a wannabe artist, and like creating things, and making box mods has always appealed to me. I’ve just been very hesitant to try soldering electrical stuff. Now that I’ve done one, and it works amazingly, I’m definitely more confident on trying more, and trying different things. Although, honestly, my puck is performing better than I could have expected, so I’ll be using it for some time, I think.

    Thank you for offering these tutorials for free!

    • No problem Dan. I hope you get good use out of them. Since you have a working Puck now, it should be easier to create any other mod you want to if you decide to venture further into modding.

      I am getting ready to release a couple more tutorials once I can free up some time. The original Puck was a total radio shack sourced mod. It isn’t that easy to do that with other styles so you will have to get parts from some other sources but they still will be easy to build.

      Have fun with your Puck.

  16. I recently put together this mod, however, I have a problem. When I don’t connect the atty, the led works, but when I connect the atty, the led won’t turn on. Any idea why? Thank you.
    Great and simple guide btw

    • Sounds like you may have your wiring wired incorrectly. Triple check your wiring. The wires for the led/resistor combination should be placed in parallel with the atomizer.

  17. When I don’t have the atomizer connected, the led works fine. However, when I connect the atomizer it produces some vapor but the led doesn’t work. Any idea why? Thank you

    • Are you using 4 batteries? Are the batteries old? Are you using an atomizer with a coil resistance of 2.5 to 3 ohms? If you have 4 fresh nimh batteries and it is wired correctly and you are not using a sub ohm atty, it should work perfectly.

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