Add Variable Voltage Control to Your eCig Mod

I’ve had many questions about how to create a variable voltage PUCK mod.  Although, with the PUCK mod, I don’t feel voltage regulation is neccesary, there are still many people who want it.  So I am supplying a circuit design and schematic for anyone who wants to build in variable voltage control to your PUCK or other eCig mod.

Below is a circuit diagram or schematic and the parts list of what you need to build a variable voltage eCig mod.  Doesn’t matter whether it is a Puck mod or any other mod.  The circuit will remain the same for all versions of eCig mods.

The diagram has the parts list and the schematic of the circuit so you should have no problem putting this together.  It’s really pretty simple.

The variable voltage regulation is based of off the NCP630A variable voltage regualtor integrated circuit.  The NCP630A is a pretty versatile chip with more than enough amperage to supply your atomizer without burning itself up.  It can handle 3 amps of power easy.

You can get the NCP630A from for an easy source of parts for less than 2 bucks.  They also sell a small kit of parts with a circuit board for the regulator circuit for less than 8 bucks if you want to go in that direction.

So without any further delay, below is the circuit schematic/diagram for your variable voltage eCig mod pleasure.


You can get the following parts from Madvapes.

NCP630A Variable voltage Regulator


Push Button Switches


20 thoughts on “Add Variable Voltage Control to Your eCig Mod

    • Yep, good catch. I used visio with the “normal” connections to create the drawing. The center tap is not the obvious normal connection plus I really don’t like some the the symbols visio uses. I think the variable resistor center tap should have an arrow but it was clear enough that you was able to catch the center tap missed connection. :) Thanks for the info. I have corrected the schematic.

    • I’m not really sure why you would want to. It’s not a voltage booster so the maximum you will ever get is 3.7 volts, the max your battery will put out. The voltage regulator will allow you to reduce the voltage but running lower than 3.7 volts is a bit underwhelming.

      What this circuit is mainly for is when your supply voltage is higher than 3.7 volts. Like putting 2 3.7 volt 18350s together in series (7.4 volts). This circuit would then allow you to adjust down the voltage to say… like 5 volts or 4.5 or something like that.

      I think you may be looking for a booster or voltage doubler.

  1. Hi, I am having trouble figuring out which of the 3 pot terminals get connected to the regulator. Is it R4 output to Reg. pin 4 and R4 input to Reg. pin 5? And 3rd pot terminal as backup output? Or am I all together wrong?

    • All you need to do is use either the left pin or the right pin of the pot to go to the pin 4 leg of the circuit and the center pin of the pot will go to pin 5. You could also connect the unused pin of the pot to the center pin of the pot (going to pin also) so you have basically have a two lead resistor that is variable.

      • Hi Puck,

        Forgive me as i don’t know much about electronics, but i need help with a college project I’m doing and you seem like the guy to ask,
        i need to design and build my own mod, but i need the schematics for one of the raptor chips or the DNA 20/30/40 chips etc, because i can’t just buy one, its to simple for a distinction.

        can you or anyone point me in the right direction?

          • Hi Puck,

            Thanks for getting back to me so soon, i appreciate the help,

            But I’ve been looking at those 2 pictures for a while now and i can get my head around something.
            Correct me if I’m wrong, the first picture is the design schematic for the raptor, and the second is the wiring write up to put all the peaces together.
            Is this correct?
            As with that schematic i need to convert it to a PCB design.

          • The first diagram is support circuitry for the raptor board. What this circuit does is eliminate the idle current drain the Raptor would have if just wired directly into your circuit. If the raptor is constantly connected to the battery directly, it would put a constant drain on your battery. It also allows you to use micro switches rated for very small amounts of current. One other thing the support circuitry does is protect against reverse polarity if you happen to put the batteries in backwards for some reason.

            The second diagram is showing how to hook up the raptor board itself (without the support circuitry). I included the first diagram in case you wanted to build a 0 idle current drain and use low amp switches.

            The second diagram is what you are interested in if you only want to just hook up the raptor in it’s purest form :)

            Sorry, I didn’t mean to confuse you :) You probably just want to build the circuit in the second photo. Also note that the PFET in the second circuit is only for reverse polarity protection. If you don’t need reverse polarity protection you may just leave it out and connect together the ends of the two red lines going to it (in other words, the line would go from the on/off switch to the push button switch instead of connecting to the PFET).

            One more note for Safety… If you build the second diagram, I would suggest using only protected batteries or you could find yourself with a big problem if the batteries drain too low.

  2. Puck,
    I think what you are doing here, especially expanding to this second site is WONDERFUL. I have so many point I could hit on, but it all comes down to this…you’ve made it possible for up “vapors” out there to create some easy MODS & ways to save $$ so simple & I just wanted to extend my gratitude for all you have done & continue to do. PLEASE never stop informing us all with the education presented on your sites. You’re just a great guy for doing all of this. Thank you.
    A grateful “vaping chick”,
    -Joe’l M.D.

  3. Hi Puck,

    How have you been, I’m getting closer to my actual build of my project so I just wanted to finalise everything before I purchase and attempt it.

    First of all, I chose to use the 1st circuit diagram as I need the reverse polarity protection and non idle current drain, my only set back is the wiring up to the Raptor pins, what goes where etc?
    I can see where the N-FET goes but what pin would the P-FET connect to in series with?
    I hope I’m making sense, if not, just let me know what bit.


  4. Hi Puck,

    I’v just seen this circuit diagram and was wondering if you know how to correct it as i know the fire switch, zener diode, and on/off control are not wired correctly, but i don’t know where they would go, also how do i post a photo in the comments so i can explain it easier.

  5. I am not sure what you are asking. The connections are in the first diagram. I think I’m missing what you asking for.

    You can upload a photo to a public site and put the link to it in the comments. The commenting section of this site has no means for uploading photos in comments.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


Unable to load the Are You a Human PlayThru™. Please contact the site owner to report the problem.