Now we are going to build the atty connector and switch housing from an old USB eCig charger casing.
This old USB eCig charger casing has to screws holding it together which makes it easy to take apart. Yours may be different. If you have screws, remove them and/or figure out how to get it apart. Mine just snapped apart after the screws were removed.
Remove the old electronics because we are not going to use any of it. Mine had one small screw holding the circuit board in You should have a blank empty case when you are done.
My case had small ridges at the bottom of the old connector. If yours has these, you may need to cut or file them down so your 510 connector fits properly. I cut mine out with a pair of side cutters and then filed it the rest of the way.
Drill a small hole in the side of the case as seen below for your push button switch.
Drill a small hole in the bottom and at the back of the USB charger casing for your wires to come out through. You will have two wires, a red and a black coming out of it.
Now you need to situate your 510 connector and push button switch. As you can see below, I have already soldered my wires to the atty connector and the switch. The red wire is going to the center conductor of the 510 atty connector. If you got the prewired atty connector, you have it easy otherwise you need to solder the wires to your connector (red wire to center). Soldering to the center conductor of the connector is pretty hard, even for me. There is a bare silver wire soldered to the case of the atty connector and it goes to one leg of the push button switch. The other leg of the push button switch has a black wire soldered to it.
The red wire and the black wire need to be led out of the bottom hole you drill above (not the hole shown in the photo. The hole in the photo is actually on top of the case).
You may notice that the push button switch has a cap on the end of it that is not on the original switch. I had some other larger pushbutton switches from Radioshack that have a snap on cap. These also fit on the smaller push button switches we are using in this mod. The cap just needs to be sanded or filed down just a bit so it doesn’t bottom out when you push it down. Having the cap makes it a little more comfortable. The cap came from this switch from RadioShack.
If you are not going to use the battery monitor and want to use a LED instead, here is a crude rendering of how you need to wire it into the USB charger case. The short lead of the LED needs to go to the wire going to the atty connector casing. The long lead gets connected to the 470 ohm resistor. The other leg of the resistor needs to go to the red wire that is going to the center of the atty connector. It would probably be best if you strip a small 1.8 inch of insulation away from the red wire and solder the resistor lead there.
There is already a hold in the case for an LED in the USB charger I had but you can drill a hole for the LED if you need to.
Once all of the parts (connector, switch and option LED) are soldered together, you need to start kneading up a small amount of epoxy putty. Once you have it mixed well, lift the connector and place a small amount under it. Lift the switch and place a small amount under it also. You then want to over all of the parts with the remaining epoxy. Make sure the parts stay in place.
The lip of the connector should just rest outside the case housing. Make sure the switch isn’t binding up against the side of the casing. If all parts are in the correct position, put the other half of the usb charger casing on making sure nothing shifts. Make sure both halves of the casing fit perfectly together.
You will have to keep checking the connector position and switch movement freedom until the epoxy sets up (which is usually about 5 minutes). A lot of attention and persistence will pay off during this part or you may end up with a useless atty connector/switch.
Once the epoxy is setup, we;re ready to move on.
Your assembled USB charger casing is now a fully functional atty/switch assembly and should look something like this…
Now you will want to rough up the bottom of the atty assembly so when we use the epoxy to build a “stand off”, it can stick to the assembly really well.
That wraps up the atty/switch assembly. Now we going to mount it onto the battery box next. We’re more than halfway through building your new Puck II eCig mod. Take a breather
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