Variable Wattage and Why You Want It for Your eCig

Although I currently do not have anything for the Puck that can do variable wattage, I can do variable voltage with the gripper board.  Although variable voltage is a step in the right direction, it’s just not the same.  Variable voltage helps you to control your voltage better and gives you more voltage to work with.  I will however, incorporate vw into the Puck eCig Mod as soon as I can get a board that works properly.

But, why would you want VW for your eCig?  The main important thing is, it’s the best way to get a consistent vape no matter what atomizer/tank system you decide to use.  It requires less fiddling and adjusting.

sid-variable-wattageA lot of folks out there say variable wattage doesn’t matter.  I’ve been doing this a long time and I say it does if you can possibly do it.  It is the easiest way to get a consistent vape… period.   Being able to get a consistent vape every time is what it’s all about.  I hate fiddling around with  things where they work one time and then oops, no more juice or dry hits or other issue.  I want consistency.  The Puck gives you consistency but you can take it to another level.

“What is Variable Wattage?”, you may ask.  VW if done right is smart.  You set what wattage level you want to vape at.  If you put an atomizer on your ecig that is 2.6 ohms, your vw circuit will adjust your voltage automatically to get your desired watts.  If you put on a different atomizer that is say, 2.1 ohms, the voltage will be adjusted automatically to match your atty to get your wattage.  Sound complicated? It’s not.

I prefer wattage around 7 watts to get the best vapor and flavor.  No matter what the ohms of your atty is, the variable wattage circuit will automatically adjust the voltage to create 7 watts.  Really simple.  No fiddling with voltage settings.

Some variable voltage devices also will adjust the wattage while you are vaping since the resistance of your atty changes when heating up.  I personally think this is a bit overkill but it does make for an accurate vape.  That would not discourage me from using just a straight VW device.  They work great even if they are basic.

You will see variable wattage devices listed as VW devices as opposed to VV devices (variable voltage).   Why do I need VW?  You don’t have to have it but if you want to vape without concern consistently, then VW is for you.

This feature can only be found on eCigs that have a smart circuit in them with a microprocessor.  These usually cost a bit more than your average eCig mod and more expensive than your variable voltage mods.  But, if you have the cash to get you one, you will find it a very nice addition to your existing ecig batteries and mods.  Worry free vaping.

As soon as I can find a decent microprocessor board for a great price, I definitely will incorporate VW into the Puck and post a tutorial for you all just as I did with the variable voltage mod, the Puck “MVP’ you can view here on this site.


Here is a list of a couple of variable wattage devices you can check out.

The SID Variable Volt/Wattage eCig Battery









ZMAX mini VWattage/Voltage









And here are links to even more variable wattage devices…

Acrylimax Variable Voltage/Wattage

ZMax Variable Voltage/Wattage

11 thoughts on “Variable Wattage and Why You Want It for Your eCig

  1. I found a workaround for the VAMO board so it’ll work with the 4xAA Puck NiMH packs. If you search “vamo nimh” on ECF you’ll see my thread on the topic.

  2. That is awesome! I just used the basic wiring picture for my puck. Is it possible a simple drawing for that? I have no electronics background or soldering, and you made the puck too easy for us :0) !

  3. Hey there! Your site is FILLED w/ nothin’ but great vape knowledge! Thank you for sharing & providing such ingenious ideas of yours.

    Anywho, just wanted to share this thought, before it slipped away from me.

    Do you recall, not too long ago, Smoktech released the GROOVE box mod, which, ultimately, it got recalled? Apparently, the recall was with the metal backing & batteries touching, causing short circuit-somethin’ like that right?

    Any way, just wanted to know if you had ever considered building a mod, using the GROOVE PCB, being that the board, itself, was functioning properly-plus, it was VV/VW 3-6V/3-15W!

    I noticed that Hoosier Ecig is selling JUST the Groove PCB for $10.99 Just figured, had you not have thought about it already, that this may be of some useful info to you.

    Take care & thanx for readin’ (;

  4. Good day to you again,

    AWESOME work as always from you on your Puck E Cig website, might i suggest the Atmel range of microcontrollers, these can be programmed quite easily using Arduino software, i sell a whole load of these and would highly recommend the Atmega8 but the Atmega328P at the very highest for a microcontroller !

    If you PM me your address i can send you some samples for free, are you familiar with Arduino ?

  5. Just a thought. Wouldn’t the guts from an Innokin vv/vw v3 work for the vw? Cheaper than a dna20 chip for a whole kit. Just use it till the batt gives out (they are rated for 300 recharges) then gut it and use all the bits including the 510. And you get some clearos to fiddle with.

    • Sure. It should work as long as the extra voltage a Puck puts out doesn’t fry it. Most of those mods are based on a lithium ion battery with 3.7 volts output. I’ve seen some modules that were only rated at like 4 volts maximum input. 4 NiMH batteries when fully charged can output 5.2 volts. That could be a problem for some voltage booster/regulator boards. I haven’t blown one yet though so it may be a moot point. Well worth a shot though.

      I have an iTaste VV v3 (variable wattage) I’ve been testing so maybe I’ll tear into it when I’m done reviewing it.